Seed Oils & Ultra-Processed Food
Charles Mayfield on How We Went From Lard to Seed Oils, Plus His Cast-Iron Steak Method
Chef Charles Mayfield on why pigs used to be bred for lard, how Crisco replaced it, tallow and lard in skincare, and his simple broiler-and-cast-iron method for a perfect medium-rare steak.
By The Meat Mafia (Harry Gray and Brett Ender)
Charles Mayfield thinks about fat the way a historian would. Pigs, he says, used to be bred for what you'd use them for, and some breeds were raised specifically to yield more lard.
In his telling, refrigeration and mechanization made a big beef carcass practical, and pork lost its central spot. Then wartime rationing put lard out of reach, and cans of Crisco took its place on store shelves.
"lard never recovered from that until now" (~08:00)
His bigger point is that knowing that history matters. If a product was created to mirror lard, he says, why not go back to the original?
The conversation turned practical fast, from lard and tallow in skincare to what he actually cooks. He's eating a lot of simple meals, like ground beef with butter and salt, and he says that saves him time.
Then he gave our audience his new steak method. Put a lard-seasoned cast-iron skillet in the middle of the oven on broil at 500°F for 20 minutes. Sear room-temperature, unseasoned steaks for one minute per side on high heat on the stovetop. Then put the skillet back in the oven for five minutes.
"Pull it out, perfect medium rare." (~31:00)
He salts and peppers the steaks afterward. And he leaves the skillet on the stove overnight so the rendered fat is ready for breakfast. That's Charles: history lesson first, dinner second. (Timestamps are approximate. Use a heavy glove. He uses a welding glove.)
TL;DR: Charles Mayfield walks through his take on how American kitchens moved from lard to seed oils: pigs bred for lard, refrigeration making beef more practical, wartime rationing, and Crisco stepping in. He talks about using animal fats on skin. Then he shares his cast-iron steak method: about seven minutes of active cooking for a perfect medium rare. The history is his own account and opinion.
Who is Charles Mayfield? A chef and longtime advocate for cooking with traditional animal fats. This is part two of our conversation.
Key takeaways
- Some heritage pig breeds were raised specifically for lard, he says (~03:00).
- In his account, refrigeration made beef more practical, and wartime rationing pushed shoppers toward Crisco (~05:00 to ~08:00).
- He frames lard as the original that Crisco was trying to mirror (~08:00).
- Simple carnivore-style meals save him time (~29:00).
- His steak method: a 20-minute broiler preheat, one minute per side on the stovetop, then five minutes back in the oven (~31:00 to ~33:00).
- He salts after cooking and sometimes adds a compound butter made with an organ blend (~33:00).
Why lard disappeared
Charles traces the shift through pig breeding, refrigeration, wartime rationing and the arrival of Crisco. It's his historical take, and he's upfront that parts of it, like his McDonald's theory, are a hypothesis.
Animal fats beyond the kitchen
He also talks about lard and tallow in skincare, which is the idea behind the tallow products he talks about (~13:00).
The seven-minute steak
Preheat a lard-seasoned cast-iron skillet in the middle of the oven on broil (about 500°F) for 20 minutes. Sear room-temperature, lightly greased steaks for one minute per side on high heat on the stovetop. Return the skillet to the oven for five minutes, then rest the steaks. For steaks thicker than about an inch and a half, add a minute or two. Season after cooking.
FAQ
Why did Americans switch from lard to seed oils? In Charles's account: changes in pig breeding, refrigeration, wartime rationing, and Crisco marketed as a lard replacement (~05:00 to ~08:00).
What's his steak method? Preheat a cast-iron skillet on broil for 20 minutes, sear one minute per side, then five minutes back in the oven (~31:00).
When does he salt the steak? After cooking (~33:00).
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Disclosure: Meat Mafia hosts Harry Gray and Brett Ender co-own Noble Origins, a grass-fed beef protein with organs. We mention it where it is relevant, so weigh our take with that in mind.
Not medical advice. This post summarizes a podcast conversation for education. The views are the guest's own. Talk to a qualified clinician before you change your diet, supplements or any medication.